top of page
  • Writer's pictureAnthony

Grass and Lawn Care A One Year guide.


January we would cut the lawn but only one third of the length of the grass this would be in conjunction with raking leaves up and the lawnmower would pick up the rest of them. Any damp areas could be spiked with a fork at ½ meter intervals more in wetter areas this will let the water drain and not sit on the surface.

February we would fill the barren areas with a topsoil and weed kill that area just to kill off any weed seeds or spores. The lawn could be cut as necessary. Any large obvious weeds could be spot treated and top dressing added to dips or areas which have been holding water. Again, spiking any areas that hold water.

March. Again, just keep on top of mowing. Clear any debris on lawn.

April. This is the start; any bare patches can be spiked and lawn dressing can be applied and all the bare soil and dressed patches can be seeded. They will need to be watered if there are too many dry days.

May. We can start weedkilling this can be done in the spring when they are starting to rapidly grow.

For annual weeds such as, Broadleaved Weeds, Buttercup, Chickweed, Clover, Daisy, Dandelion, Dock, General Weeds, Groundsel,

Moss, Nettle, Plantain, Thistle you can use a 4 in 1 weed and moss killer and this can be spread by hand.

This can be used a lot of the time of the year.

For the professional you could use a knapsack sprayer, but you should have pesticide training and wear the correct protective clothing. Most of these weedkillers should not be used near watercourses or ponds. Pets should also be kept off the lawn. Thrust can be used in the spring summer and autumn as it is a professional use product.

We use a company called Agrigem and they have comprehensive data sheets and drop-down menus with rates type of distribution and costs plus coverage. If you can identify the weed, you can pinpoint the correct weedkiller.

June.

We use a product called Renevator Pro.

It is used with a spreader which needs to be thoroughly cleaned and dried after use. Protective clothing must be worn

Sportsmaster Renovator Pro is a weed, feed and moss control product from ICL that is ideal for doing three jobs in one easy application. An NPK mini-granular formulation, Renovator Pro also contains two selective herbicide actives, MCPA and Mecoprop-P, to control broadleaved weeds (such as creeping buttercup, daisies, and white clover) during the spring and summer.

Renovator Pro contains the ideal balance of NPK to strengthen turf. The high levels of potassium encourage turf growth and improved root development. The mini-granule formulation ensures an even distribution across the entire area; each 0.5-2.5mm granule contains the ideal amount of nutrient.

Key Benefits:

- Does three jobs in one simple and easy application.

- Contains two selective herbicides to control broadleaved weeds.

- High iron content to deter moss.

- Mini-granule formulation.

- Ideal for use in the spring and summer.

One dose usually will do the trick but you must check the spread so you don’t over cover the area as it will burn and scorch the grass.

In this project you would have to steer clear of the newly sewn area.

July will be checking for weeds light watering early in the morning or late at night subject to local restrictions

August grass cutting spot weed checks and greening up the lawn for a summer party.

This is a product which could be used

NutriFlo Nitro-Fe is a unique stabilised nitrogen and iron complex which provides a quick green-up of grass without over stimulation of growth. This liquid fertiliser is used as a rapid greening agent to improve the vibrancy of lawn and turf colour prior to events without any risk of scorch. The high nitrogen content within Nitro-Fe aids photosynthesis and ultimately leads to greener, healthier looking plants and grass. Apply at 10-20L per Ha in a minimum of 200L/Ha or water. If applying by handheld equipment apply at 60ml per litre of water.

Key Benefits:

- Greens-up grass quickly.

- Does not over-stimulate grass.

- Ideal for use before an event where the appearance of the grass is important.

September Grass cutting and at the end the start of autumn this lawn could be scarified with a large petrol scarifier. The lawn will look terrible, but it is a necessity to remove horizontal grass rhizomes, moss and dead grass this is called thatch. The scarifier aerates the lawn and gives the chance of the lawn producing side shoots. Heavy use lawns get compacted, so this process helps drainage. This is why moss and liverwort colonise and compete with the grass.

October

Spike the lawn with a hollow tine and then top dress

We use a product like this

70/30 top dressing contains 70% sand and 30% topsoil. This top dressing can be used in a variety of areas but is particularly suited to sports pitches throughout the year. It can be applied following seeding or overseeding to protect the development of plants and encourage the germination of grass seeds. Interesting fact that is very popular with bowls clubs due to the high sand content that promotes free draining and a smooth surface.

Top dressing can also be applied after renovation processes such as aeration, so that it will filter into the holes made and will improve the rate at which grass and turf recovers. It can also be used to help against winter desiccation.

Key Benefits:

- Contains 70% specially selected sand

- Contains 30% topsoil

- Ideal for use after seeding or overseeding areas

- Protects grass against winter desiccation

Our Recommendation:

- Apply to lawns and sports pitches

- Overseed bare or patchy areas first using our Premier range of grass seed


November

Application of a quality granular feed and moss killer. Any additional dead moss can be raked out.

Cut lightly as needed.

December Clear the leaves and spike the ground in any damp patches. Try and walk on the lawn as little as possible as it will cause the grass to flatten and will compact the soil.


In the next year only light scarification with a spring rake should be needed but the process can be repeated and the weed killing toned down. Once top dressing the second year the garden could be seeded early or later in the year in areas. Maybe split the garden in four and wait for the grass to germinate. Cut when it grows on a high cut.

If the grass turns brown don’t worry as it will come back, only water sparingly and not in full sun.

Never cut the grass too short in one hit.


Lets all enjoy a beautiful Lawn.




18 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All
bottom of page